Surfing - How Waves Behave

One of the most important aspects of learning to surf is getting familiar with how the water and land interact. Waves swell and crash because of a complex interaction between the wind over the surface, the shape of the ocean underneath, nearby outcroppings and gravity. A surfer doesn't need to be a physicist to learn how judge the waves. But being aware of some of their behavior and how to react to them will keep you safer.

The classic tube is formed by a swell, which results from continual moderate to strong waves brushing over the surface of the ocean near the shore. The bigger the expanse, and the stronger the offshore wind, the bigger the swell, all other things being equal.

But they rarely are equal. Reefs, sand bars and other formations under the water play a big role in how the water moves. As a swell passes over a reef it will tend to rise. Ditto when the ocean floor drops away sharply from the approaching wave.

Waves crest because the water builds up as the land gets more shallow. But they can only sustain themselves to a certain point before gravity brings the crest down. That will carry you with it.

Until you get more experience, stick with simple circumstances. Don't go out when the weather is gnarly. Big winds mean big swells. Keep the waves you attack down to about 3-4 feet (1-1.2 m). You'll need something that large to get up momentum, but anything larger is too big a challenge at this stage.

As you paddle out to the wave, be aware of what's nearby and what goes on around you. Piers, rocky outcroppings and more can alter the way the wave acts. As the wave moves around them it tends to produce a swirl that can sweep you up and turn you around. Paddle out away from all obstructions, past any near shore barriers, then turn around.

Once you're out far enough, you'll want even more to keep an eye on the water's movements. But it just got harder, because the waves are now behind you. You'll need to keep glancing over your shoulder to judge the wave speed, direction and size. At the same time, you need to be aware of how close you are moving toward the shore and any other nearby surfers.

The passing waves will gently pick you up and set you down if you are still out away from the break. But once you've drifted or paddled in far enough to catch a wave, the swell will lift you higher. As the wave starts to turn over, it will tend to carry you into the tube.

Stand and be counted. You're surfing.